Set-Up and Use

• Insert the blade and install the wedge without tightening it. Adjust the blade so the cutting edge is aligned with the sole, but doesn't project. Give the wedge a push to make it snug.

• With a wooden mallet or plane-adjusting hammer, give the end of the tang a gentle tap to set the blade; tap the finial to tighten the wedge.
  

• Sight down the sole of the plane from the toe—the cutting edge should be equidistant along the mouth, with the blade projecting only slightly. If lateral adjustment is required, tap either edge of the tang. If the blade is set too deeply, gently strike the heel of the plane. Retighten the wedge before use.

• For the best results, use mild, straight-grained stock. Remember that the pitch (bedding angle) dictates the most suitable material, 45º for softwoods, 50º for general use and 55 - 60º for hardwoods. There is some leeway. For example, I've successfully cut moldings in softer hardwoods, such as walnut, using a 45º pitch.

• "Sticking" is the process of cutting the molding. Be aware of grain direction, both along the edge and on the surface.

• Grasp the body so that the pad of your right hand rests on the rounded heel, and your left hand holds the toe. Apparently, left-handed molding planes exist, but I've only encountered right-handed planes.

• With the fence against the edge of the work, tilt the plane to the required spring angle. Springing gives greater control, and also allows the mouth to be of a consistent width to support the shaving and take a smooth cut. Many planes have guidelines scribed on the toe; if not, angle the plane until the stop is parallel with the work surface.