|
Soil
The soil doesn't have to be replenished if you begin
with the correct ingredients. After drilling the drainage
holes, cover the bottom of the pot with pebbles or broken
potshards to a depth of 1". I use generic black
soil, as I find that commercial container soil compacts
quickly, which results in poor moisture retention.
You should add bulk to the soil to help retain moisture
and render the mixture coarse. Peat moss is perfect
for this purpose. However, never add dry peat moss -
it won't absorb moisture or improve texture. Place the
peat in a pail, cover it with boiling water, drain,
and then incorporate the moss into the soil. (Incidentally,
peat moss is invaluable if you are planting an azalea
or any other acid-loving plant.)
To provide drainage and aerate the soil, add perlite
or vermiculite. Not only will they provide appropriate
density, these two ingredients create air space in the
soil and improve drainage. At the same time, you can
work fertilizer into the earth before the plants are
established. I fertilize only once in the season, but
if you are more dedicated, the common rules apply: nitrogen
for foliage, phosphorus for blooms and potassium for
stems and hardiness. I find both granular and soluble
fertilizers to be equally effective. In climates that
experience four seasons, avoid fertilizing container
plants toward the end of the growing season; if the
plants develop young, fragile shoots, they will freeze
and die as cold weather approaches.
|
