Lee Valley Tools Gardening Newsletter
Vol. 3, Issue 2
April 2008
 
Growing Lilacs
 


The ideal soil is a neutral or slightly alkaline loam that's not too rich. However, lilacs will grow well in all types of soil, except for one that is acid. If the soil is low in fertility, add a fertilizer that's low in nitrogen and high in phosphate and potash. Bone meal is a good fertilizer for lilacs, and it contains the lime that can sweeten acid soil.

Dig a hole big enough to accommodate the roots without bending or breaking them. Work a bucket of peat moss and a cup of 5–10–5 fertilizer into the hole. This will promote the development of a good root system and hasten the establishment of the plant. Mix peat moss and fertilizer with the soil throughout the area. Good soil preparation will aid in producing an attractive, heavily flowering plant.

Set the plant 2"–3" deeper than it grew in the nursery (setting it deeper can kill it) and work topsoil in around the roots. Pour in water, then let it drain away. Fill in the hole to ground level with more topsoil.

Use a 3"–4" mulch of leaves or hay around the plant in the fall to keep moisture in and prevent heaving—the alternate freezing and thawing of the ground. Heaving can kill the plant after the soil settles; the level around the plant should be even with the surrounding ground. Allow 6' of space or more between most lilac plantings.

Care and maintenance
Lilacs require a minimum of care. They seldom need supplemental water, only in cases of drought. If weeds grow around the plant, pull them out by hand, and then apply mulch. Do not cultivate around the base of the plant.

Do not overprune lilacs. Let the plant develop several branches from the base, instead of only one or two. This way, you can remove stems that have grown too tall or have been attacked by disease or insects, and still have flowering wood.

Pruning is unnecessary for the first few years. Starting in the fourth or fifth year, limit pruning to the removal of weaker wood from the center of the bush, which prevents a thicket from developing. Do this soon after flowers have fallen. Do not prune in late summer, fall, or winter; late pruning often results in the removal of flower buds.

Old bushes with runaway growth will need severe pruning. In such cases, remove about a third of the height of the plant each year for three consecutive years, until the old wood has been cut to about level.

Remove dead flowers soon after they wither. This helps ensure vigorous growth for the rest of the season and abundant blooming the following year.

 
                     
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