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Soil
Amendments
Half (or a bit more) of the soil you dig up should be
replaced with organic matter, such as composted animal
manure, leaves, etc. Mix the original soil and the organic
matter well. I add a brick of coir (compressed coconut
husk fibres), which has amazing water-storage ability.
I first saturate the brick in water and then mix with
the soil. I also include a handful of bone meal, two tablespoons
of Epsom salts, two handfuls of alfalfa meal (I use alfalfa
rabbit food pellets) and, finally, I place a couple of
old rusty iron nails in the bottom of the hole. |
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Hybrid Perpetual 'Ferdinand Pichard' |
Filling
the Hole
Backfill the hole by adding soil alternated with water. (I use
up to 1 gallon/
4 litres of water, alternating 1/4 of the soil with 1/4
of the water.) Do not step on the dirt. A weak application of
a starter or transplant fertilizer (such as
10-52-10 diluted
to 1/4 strength) or weak manure tea (also diluted to 1/4 strength)
will help the roots develop.
Mulch
This is not a necessity, but it does provide the following benefits:
reduces soil erosion during high winds or heavy rains; in winter,
the extra insulation moderates freezing and thawing of the soil;
in summer, it tempers the soil's heat absorption, thereby slowing
water loss; provides a beneficial environment for worms, insects
and other life necessary for a healthy soil and discourages
weed growth. Apply a layer no more than 3" (7.6cm) deep, so that
air and water can easily pass through. I recommend using compost,
shredded bark, shredded leaves or pine needles. (Contrary to
popular belief, pine needles do not make the soil more acidic.
Over time, they will compost and become close to neutral in
pH.) I avoid using fresh grass, peat moss and whole leaves because
they mat and shed water. The root zone of a rose bush is not
very wide; therefore, anything that moves water away from that
area will starve your plant of water. Also, air cannot get through
these materials to the soil, which promotes anaerobic bacteria
and fungus.
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