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Getting started
Measure and cut all stock to 3/4" x 5".
The paddle support is 18" long, but the backboard
may need to be longer to allow for the curving
of the canoe ends (if you opt to go with that
design).
Joinery first
Complete all joinery while you still have full
edges for reference. A 3/8" x 3/4" groove
running the length of the backboard (beginning
about 3/8" up from the bottom edge) provides
the strongest connection, but you'll need a table
saw with a dado blade or a router with a straight
bit to accomplish this. Another approach is to
cut a 3/4"-wide, 1/8"- deep rebate along
the bottom edge. An easy way to do this is to
set an ordinary table saw blade to a 3/4"
cutting height and run the backboard vertically
against the fence. Alternatively, you can use
a router or hand plane. Drill from the back through
the joint for #8 x 1-3/4" countersunk screws.
Three should hold it securely.
Tip: If you lack the capacity to cut grooves
and rebates in your shop, a butt joint attached
from the back using two or three screws will suffice.
Pre-drill the holes (these will need to be countersunk
so that the backboard sits flat against the wall)
before shaping the part.
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The hanger provides a means of storing paddles
in an aesthetically pleasing manner. |
Shaping the backboard
You can trace a side-view photo of a favorite canoe
after enlarging it (using a photocopier) to approximately
the size of your backboard. An outline drawn freehand
also suffices. If you'd like to simplify the process
further, fold a sheet of paper and draw half of the
canoe along the fold. Cut out the shape. When you unfold
the paper, you will have a perfectly symmetrical canoe.
Transfer the pencil outline or glue the pattern directly
onto your stock. Cut just outside of the line using
a bandsaw, scroll saw or coping saw. Finish the material
to the line using a spokeshave, scraper or sandpaper.
At this point, consider how the paddle rack will be
fastened to the wall. Five hardwood paddles can be heavy,
so I recommend counterboring and screwing the rack into
wall studs. The screw heads can be hidden with wooden
plugs. Alternatively, attach the hanger using flush-set
countersunk screws through the backboard (your hung
paddles will hide the screws). Either way, be sure to
drill the holes before assembly.
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