Paddle support layout
The same layout process can be done on either the paddle support itself or on a template for pattern routing.

Draw three lines parallel to the back edge spaced 1-3/4", 3-1/4" and 3-3/4". On the first line closest to the back, mark centers 2" from each end. On the second line, mark two centers 5-1/2" from each end. On the front line, mark one center in the middle of the support. If drilling 1-1/4" round holes, these marks will be the centers. If an oval hole is required, the center of the two
1-1/8" holes forming the paddle holes should be marked 1/4" on either side of this mark along the length of the line.

To trace a fair curve on the front of the support, use a drawing bow or a thin batten that has been arched using a piece of twine. The curve must touch both endpoints of the first parallel line (1-3/4" from back), while touching the front edge of the board in the center of its length. Three rows of paddles will hang within the depth of this curve, allowing the paddle blades to overlap.

Making the paddle support
Cut around the outline of the paddle support with a bandsaw, scroll saw or coping saw. Bore the 1-1/4" round-paddle holes or drill two 1-1/8" overlapping holes with a Forstner bit to make them slightly oval. This will keep the paddle aligned for the best blade presentation. Remember to back up the stock with a piece of scrap to minimize tear-out.

Cut the exit slots for the paddle shafts 1-1/8" wide. The exit slots can be cut out using a coping saw. Relieve the upper edges of the holes with a round file, sandpaper or a trim router.

Assembly
Glue and clamp the paddle support to the backboard and drill three pilot, clearance and countersink holes into the hanger. A combination bit can do all three operations.

Finishing schedule
Load a padded sanding block with 80-grit paper and smooth the entire project. Various soft-foam backing shapes allow for some shaping and fairing of the curves. The edges should all be rounded in order to coddle the paddle shafts. Stay with #80 paper until you are satisfied with the shape. Then, work your way through 120- and 220-grit papers to produce a smooth finish with an even scratch pattern.

Because paddles are sometimes put away when they are wet, your finishing choices are limited to waterproof options. I used polymerized tung oil because it's simple to apply, easily renewable and builds to a soft gloss after approximately three coats. Wipe on a generous coating, wait 15 minutes and then wipe off the excess using a new rag. Set it aside to dry. Apply the next two coats using 0000 steel wool to refine the finish, wiping and drying as before. Dispose of rags and steel wool safely, as drying oils like tung oil are prone to spontaneous combustion.

Enjoy your new paddle rack.


Graham Collins
Lee Valley staff