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The handle pattern outline.
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Creating the template. |
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After you select a template, trace the pattern onto your
chosen timber. I used rosewood for this example, but for
your first handle, it's probably best to start with something
that's a little easier to work with and a bit less costly,
should you make a mistake. For maximum comfort, don't
use wood less than 1" thick. However, you can go
thicker if you like a chunky grip.
Follow the same steps as you did while making the template—bore the holes for the inside curves and then cut out
the remainder. Be sure to cut out only the front of the
handle where the kerf will go, that way, if the kerf goes
wrong, you won't have wasted all that work. Take the blade
for which you are making the handle and lay it on the
blank. Mark the back edge of the blade to indicate how
deep to saw the kerf. Also mark the location of the securing
bolts.
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The handle shape and the bolt locations marked on the blank. |
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The kerf for the blade needs to be a snug fit. To accomplish
this, use the saw you're making the handle for, but
with no set on the teeth. Or better yet, since ripping
down the kerf without any set is harder work, use a
saw with a thinner blade, but with set to make the correct
width. Next, mark up the centerline using a marking
gauge. Now comes the clever bit—instead of relying
on a steady hand, a good eye and luck, lay both the
kerf-cutting blade and the handle blank on a level surface
and shim up the blade so that it's level with your gauge
line. Clamp it down, double check that the height is
still correct, and then simply push the handle blank
back and forth, flat on the level surface alongside
the blade to cut a perfectly straight and parallel kerf.
Go as deep as you can, then finish off freehand using
the jigged kerf to guide your saw straight and true.
(Bet that was the bit that was worrying you too, wasn't
it?)
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