| |
 |
Using Splined Miters in Frame-and-Panel Construction |
 |
 |
| |
Shop-made corner blocks
|
After you have applied enough clamp pressure to bring
the joints together, quickly check the faces of each piece
to ensure they are reasonably flush. If not, use a hammer
and a block of wood to flush them up. Also, measure the
diagonals to check for square. This type of construction
tends to be self-squaring, but if necessary, push on the
corners to adjust the diagonals until they are equal.
Check it over, and then let the assembly dry.
|
The clamped assembly left to dry.
|
|
Once it has dried completely, remove the clamp and corner
blocks. These may be slightly stuck to the frame, but
a light tap with a small hammer should knock them off
without breaking the joint. Without the splines, the frame
is fragile, so handle it carefully.
|
Cutting the slots for the splines is next. I made my spline-cutting
jig specifically to ride over the fence of my table saw.
You will need to make one to fit your particular fence.
Mine certainly isn't fancy, but it is accurate and reliable.
It takes frames up to 3/4" thick; I use a shim to
hold thinner frames in place. |
| Set
the saw-blade height slightly lower than the routed
inside profile and the groove. Set the jig and fence
to cut the spline precisely—usually center
or slightly to the back of the frame. This allows
the outside profile to be routed without cutting
into the spline. Use a saw blade that will leave
a square-cornered kerf. A good carbide-tipped master-combination
blade works well. Cut the groove for the splines. |
|
Spline-cutting jig |
|
|
|
| |
 Go
to Page: 1 2 3 4 
|
|
 |
| |
| |
Other
Articles from this Issue |
|
|
|
|
