| |
Requiring slightly more effort, but with much more scope
for variation, is the two-part type of miniature mallet.
We'll start with the handles, which are common to all
the head varieties. A 1/4" square blank is large
enough; allow around 2" of length per handle. I like
to do a couple at once, which makes holding them under
the drill press much easier. Before you get carried away
with the artistry, consider two important measurements—thickness for the key-ring hole and the tenon or spigot
diameter. I've standardized to around 3/16" for all
my handles; the length is dependent on head type and size.
Bore the holes in the handles, finish the ends as before
and separate the two handles with a fine saw.
|
The author opts to turn a couple of handles at
one time, and then separate them using a fine saw.
|
|
There are a few options for head styles, but the easiest
is the traditional oblong type. Again, batch production
makes handling these tiny pieces much easier. A blank
just 1/2" square is enough, and about 7/8"–1"
maximum length looks right to me. Mark up the heads and
bore the mortises. Saw each one free and plane, shave,
file and/or sand them to shape. Again, a disc or belt
sander can be helpful, but holding these small pieces
is tricky. I find it easier to finish the bottom surface,
glue in the handle and then do the remaining shaping with
at least a little more to hold on to. A slight bevel on
the mallet face and a slight curve on the top looks authentic,
but experiment to find what suits you best. Glue in the
handle and finish off flush or slightly proud, depending
on your choice. |
Marking up the heads and boring the mortises.
|
|
Sanding the head to shape.
|
|
| In
addition to the tenon choice, there are many possible
variations—blind tenons, turned heads (both
vertical and horizontal), shorter or longer handles,
larger or smaller heads, and, of course, mixing
and matching wood colors. The world is the miniature
mallet of your choice.
Al Frampton
|
|
|
|
