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- The maker's name is usually imprinted on the plane's toe. You may also see elegant script writing, normally
on the heel. Likely done by the merchant, it's
often a description of the profile shape, but
sometimes there's also a selling price included.
Don't clean these areas.
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| Made by Alexander Wallace of Montréal
circa 1845–1870, this plane has a distinct name
stamp on its toe (left), and displays elegant
writing on its heel (right). |
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- Use fine wet/dry sandpaper (about 400 grit)
and a bit of light machine oil to scour away
blade rust. Don't worry about the bevel
or polishing the face at this stage.
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- Varsol® or Murphy® Oil Soap used full
strength (without added water) and a soft cloth
remove superficial dirt on the body and the
wedge well. For stubborn grime, use a fine grade
of steel wool or a Scotch-Brite pad in localised
areas only; avoid using abrasion on the sole.
The idea is to clean, leaving the original finish
and patina intact. Be careful while cleaning
the front of the block where the maker's stamp
is; it's important to the plane's monetary value
and its significance as an artifact.
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- Clean the confined areas of the throat using
a toothbrush. Remove any residue with a twisted
cloth or paper towel. If you don't, it may act
as glue and lock the wedge.
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Some later factory planes were varnished, but most others
were finished using boiled linseed oil. It was generally
recommended to reapply linseed oil, or, in the case of
a cracked stock, to immerse the body in an oil bath. In
my experience, not only does this practice not close the
cracks, it also leads to sticky droplets of oil bleeding
out of the stock even 20 years later. Also, linseed oil
actually feeds an enzyme reaction that slowly degrades
wood—better to use it on new things you've made, not objects
you're trying to preserve. Most museums and collectors
use good quality furniture paste wax. |
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