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Step
One: True One Face
Begin
with the fore plane, setting it so it will take a shaving
that is the thickness "of an old coined shilling",
a bit more than 1/32" thick. If the grain is difficult,
reduce the cut to "the thickness of an old groat",
or less than 1/32". If the board is warped or cupped,
plane across the grain—what Moxon calls "traversing"—to
bring the high spots down to the low spots on your first face.
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Planing across the grain is easy. Work the high
spots until they're the same as the low spots on one face
of the board. |
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Work narrower stock at an angle using the jointer, Moxon
writes, to ensure flatness. |
Moxon says you should check your work by sighting down the
face of the board either with one eye, with a long ruler,
or with a piece of straight stock that is as long as the piece
you are working. When the first face is flat, you should refine
it further. Set the fore plane to a lighter shaving and plane
the board. Then use a jointer plane. Traverse across the grain
for wide panels, or work at angles corner-to-corner for narrow
stock.
Finish up that first face using a smoothing plane, if necessary.
Work with the grain and overlap your strokes.
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