Lee Valley Tools Woodworking Newsletter
Vol. 2, Issue 5
May 2008
 
Installing Crown Molding
 



Holding It Up
To ensure tight joints with wall and ceiling, crown molding must be nailed into more than just drywall; at least 1" of nail penetration into framing is needed. A stud sensor will reveal where all the studs and joists are; however, you will quickly discover that in the ceiling along two sides (parallel to the joists) there will be no framing at all. Before putting up drywall, 2 x 4 blocking can be installed between the joists.

Undersized blocking
Deliberately undersized blocking.

However, crown molding is most often an afterthought. After-the-fact options include cutting holes in the drywall and laying wood blocks in the ceiling (not good for the integrity of the vapor barrier); climbing around in the attic (risk falling through) and trying to glue the molding on using construction adhesive (messy and limited effectiveness). The quickest and most effective way is to install lengths of bevelled 3/4" plywood blocking around the room using 4" ardox nails or heavy screws driven into the top wall plates. Deliberately undersize the blocking to avoid interfering with the back side of the crown.

Which Piece First?
Because outside corners are typically off square by 3° to 4°, they can rarely be done straight from the miter saw. Being a bit tricky, they're often recommended as the place to start. This is almost always bad advice. Plan instead to finish on the outside corners and this joint becomes easy to finesse into a perfect gap-free miter.

Start on the longest, most visible wall. If nothing else, make a mistake here and the piece can still be reused on another wall.

Inside Corners
Achieving perfect results for the more numerous inside corners is the bigger problem. The advent of the power miter saw has led to the practice of mitering both outside and inside corners. But mitering both ends of a length of crown molding requires an unachievable precision level in both measuring and cutting. Additionally, the act of nailing crown molding to the wall tends to open up inside miter joints, as will any later stud shrinkage. The traditional cope joint should always be used for inside corners.

 
 
                 
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