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Coping
With coping, one end of each piece will have a simple
square cut, the other is profiled—or coped—to fit against
the molded face of the previous piece which runs past it
into the corner. This permits leeway in length and adjustment,
as the cope covers the end of the preceding piece. A coped
joint is tighter, more durable and the fastest way to achieve
gap-free corners.
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| Sawing
the molding. |
Saw the molding as though you're cutting an inside miter.
If the molding is held leaning against the saw fence, as it
will later be installed, this is a simple 45° miter. If, however,
the molding is held flat on the saw table (safer and more
accurate), the cut becomes compound. (For molding with a spring
angle of 45°, the miter angle is 35.3° and the bevel is 30°.
The angles for 38° molding are preset on most saws.) The curving,
bevelled cope line is derived from where this miter cut intersects
the crown face. Building a short trough from scrap plywood
to hold the molding at the same angle as the one at which
it will be installed makes it easier to view how this cut
should look.
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| Viewing
the cut. |
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