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Tack up each piece as you go, but do not complete nailing
until the cope of the next one has been trial-fitted against
the first. The molding will lie at the correct spring angle
when the cope closes perfectly. Because the square end is
covered, the molding can now be crudely trimmed to final length
using a handsaw. A little extra length here guarantees the
coped end will stay tightly closed.
Outside
Corners
Because of drywall taping, outside corners are almost never
at 90°. So, it takes a bit of tweaking to achieve a perfect
joint. Start by holding a short length of molding in place
and mark on the ceiling where the outer edges will cross.
This intersection, and the corner bead itself, define the
true miter line that must be cut. Adjusting the miter angle
on your saw to hit these two points will yield a near-perfect
joint. Occasionally, you will need to make a minor adjustment
to the bevel angle using an apron plane.
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| Adjusting the miter angle. |
Crown molding should generally be installed straight, not
bent to conform to minor ceiling and wall flaws. High spots
in the drywall should be marked on the crown molding and planed
off. Hollows should be filled with caulking, or preferably
a skim coat of setting-type drywall compound. Pneumatic finish
nailers are recommended for tacking up crown molding, as they
produce a better result.
Peter Boeckh
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