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Next, cut saddle joints 1" deep in the legs and also
the top support. You'll generally pick up the sawhorses by
the underside of the top supports, so round the bottom long
edges of these for a comfortable fit in your hand. For an
added touch, mitre the bottom corners of each end of the top
supports to 45°.
Top support
Stretcher detail
Once the legs are cut to final width and length, create a
dado in the legs where the two stretchers attach. The lap-joint
end of the leg will be trimmed later, which means an accurate
measurement cannot be taken from the bottom end of the leg.
So, for consistency in the dado location on all the legs,
measure from the top.
Now it's time to piece together the sawhorse feet. First,
wrap the lap-joint portion of the legs with packing tape so
that they (the legs) won't adhere to the feet during this
glue up. One smooth layer of packing tape on the leg joints
is enough to prevent any glue squeeze-out from causing havoc.
With the leg clamped in place on the long foot, place each
of the second laminations for the feet on either side of the
leg to create the other half of the lap joint on the foot.
Clamp the laminations for the feet together, but be sure to
remove the leg from the foot and clean up any squeeze-out
on the joint before the glue on the feet has set to final
hardness. If just the right amount of glue is used, the laminations
will not slide around during the clamping process. I used
some small brads to hold laminations in place while gluing;
screws could also be used.
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