Lee Valley Tools Woodworking Newsletter
Vol. 3, Issue 3
January 2009
 
Building a Murphy Bed
 



For the top, bottom and shelf assemblies, I made some minor design changes to allow for knock-down assembly. Specifically, I added frame members that will support the knockdown bolts (called bolt-mounting plates in the cut list).

Mounting plates
The mounting plates were attached behind the shelf stiffeners to the backrest stiffeners to allow for the knockdown bolts to attach through the plates and into the side panels. The connections of the bolt mounting plates to the shelves were strengthened with screws and taper-cut plugs. In the above sketch, the holes show the approximate size of the knockdown bolt heads, not the drill holes.

These pieces of cherry became the mechanism that makes the bed knockdown; however, there was a tradeoff. Since the plan instructs that the shelves be installed using shelf pins and pre-drilled holes, you can put the shelves where you want them, but with this changed design, the shelves are in fixed locations because they add critical structural rigidity to the bed.
Before assembly, I finished and protected each piece using four coats of kid-friendly wiped-on water-based polyurethane. For the assembly, the challenge with doing knockdown was aligning all the mounting hardware to permit everything to line up.

Also challenging was the fact that I was dealing with 7' tall sides nearly 2' wide, and with tops, bottoms, and shelves that were nearly 4' long.
I simplified the process by using the top and bottom pieces as alignment templates for my drilling and assembly. I drilled the 9mm clearance holes in the horizontal mounts in the top, bottom, bed-rest top and bottom and the three shelves. I placed one side of the case flat on the floor, positioned each of the pieces, and then used an 11/32" transfer punch to precisely transfer the mounting hole position to each location on the carcass side, pinpointing an exact location to drill the holes for the insert nuts that would hold the shoulder bolts. I then drilled a set of 8mm holes for the insert nuts. Using wax on the insert nuts and a ratchet with an 8mm hex bit made it much easier to insert the nuts into the cherry. Once the insert nuts were in place, the top, bottom, bed-rest top and bottom and shelves could all be attached to the first side of the case. The entire project was then turned over, squared up and the transfer punch was used to define the positioning holes for the opposite case side.

 
 
                   
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