How to Make a Hallway Entry Bench

TRANSCRIPT

Hi, I’m AJ, owner of AJ’s Antique Revival. Today I’m going to show you how to make a hallway entry bench. We’ll take old boards like these, plane and sand them, and turn them into a bench.

I love using reclaimed wood. It’s rewarding to reuse something that’s a hundred years old and might otherwise have been thrown away. It has history and character that you can’t make up.

When you’re starting with reclaimed wood, one of the most important steps is removing the nails. Make sure all the metal is out before you start working with the boards. You’ll want a flathead screwdriver, a pry bar and a hammer. Drive the nails through where needed, then pry them out. Once that’s done, it’s time to plane the boards.

I’ve finished planing the boards with a thickness planer. You can adjust the depth of cut to get the look you want. A light pass leaves more of the marks in the wood, or you can keep planing for a smoother, cleaner surface.

There will be plenty of sanding, but first we need to glue up the bench top. When gluing boards for a table or bench top, look at the growth rings on their ends. Arrange the boards so the rings don’t all curve in the same direction. Here, one curves downward and the other upward. That helps reduce cupping or warping over time.

Once you’ve decided on the arrangement and alignment, set up your clamps. I’m using Lee Valley’s cabinetmaker’s glue and a brush for easy application. Turn the boards up on edge and apply an even layer of glue along the joint. You don’t want it too thick or too thin, but you do want full coverage. Then bring the boards together with the clamps.

Tighten the clamps gradually and apply even pressure across the joint. Press down on the boards as you go so they don’t lift off the clamp bars. You want to see an even bead of glue squeeze out.

Don’t worry if there’s a small gap; I’ll show you how to fill it. I haven’t used dowels, biscuits or a Domino system to join these two boards. For a larger tabletop, I might use one of those to help with alignment, but the glue is strong enough for this joint. Let it set overnight.

Once the glue is dry, you can remove the squeeze-out with a flat chisel. Then use a planer, sander or belt sander to clean up the joint. Make sure all the excess glue is gone. If you have a small gap, work glue into it and sand over it while it’s still wet. Sawdust from the same wood will mix with the glue and help the filled area match.

If you have a board that’s wide enough, you can use a single piece for the bench top. If you need to glue two boards together, the process is straightforward.

This reclaimed live-edge board has a knot near the top. I usually like to leave the knots and holes because they’re part of its character, but this knot could come loose, so I’m going to stabilize it. I’m using medium-brown Starbond. Apply it in thin layers, using the accelerator between layers, until the filled area is level with the surface. Then sand it smooth.

Now it’s time for sanding. It takes a while, but it’s a crucial part of this bench. I’m using a Mirka orbital sander with a dust extractor to keep the mess down. I’ll start with 150-grit abrasive and move up to 220 grit. First, I’ll sand the filled knot flush so the glue isn’t visible. Wear a mask when sanding, even with a dust extractor, to protect your lungs from fine dust.

All the pieces are sanded. You can make your bench whatever size suits your space. This is a small entryway bench with a 32-inch-long top. Keep the thickness of the top in mind when cutting the legs. We want a bench that’s 18 inches high; the top is 2 inches thick, so the legs need to be 16 inches long.

The skirting needs to be shorter than the bench top to leave room for the legs at each end. We’re also adding a shelf. Its size needs to fit the space between the legs and skirting.

We’ll dry-fit everything now to work out where to cut the notches that let the shelf fit between the legs. I’ve set the skirting a little farther in so it has more material to attach to at the legs. With the 16-inch legs and 2-inch top together, the finished bench will be 18 inches high.

The dry fit gives us the shelf measurements: 10½ inches by 29½ inches. Now we can work out the size of the corner notches. Accurate measurements matter, but it also helps to step back and look at the piece. You can adjust how far the shelf sits in from the legs until you like the proportions. I’m using an inset of 1½ inches in one direction and 1¾ inches in the other.

Mark the notches on the shelf with a square. I’ve checked the measurements several times—measure twice, cut once. I’ll cut the notches with a Japanese pull saw, then dry-fit the shelf again. You may need to sand the edges a little to get a snug fit. Dry fitting is important because you want every piece to line up before adding screws and glue.

With the shelf still in its dry-fit position, mark where the pocket holes will go. We’ll also mark the pocket holes for attaching the skirting to the legs. We won’t use pocket holes to attach the base to the bench top. For that joint, we’ll use figure-eight connectors, which allow for wood movement as the conditions in your home change.

To drill the pocket holes, I’m using a jig. Measure the thickness of the wood and adjust the jig and the drill bit’s stop collar for the screw length you’re using. Clamp the jig securely, then drill the holes.

All the pocket holes are drilled, and we’re ready to screw the base together. I’ve clamped the parts so they stay tight and aligned. Don’t overtighten the clamps or you may pull the narrow legs inward. Keep checking that everything is flush and square.

Use pocket-hole screws for these joints. Their wider heads sit properly in the holes; regular tapered screws won’t seat the same way. The space beside these narrow legs is tight, so I’m using a 90-degree drill attachment to reach the screws.

The skirting is attached to the legs. Next, we’ll fasten the base to the bench top with figure-eight connectors. They allow a little movement as the wood expands and contracts. Measure and mark each connector’s position, then use a marking tool to make an indentation at the centre. That gives the tip of the Forstner bit a place to start so it doesn’t wander.

Use the Forstner bit to recess the connector to the right depth. Predrill before inserting the screw so the wood doesn’t split. Once all the connectors are installed, we can turn the base over and attach it to the top. Centre the base and check that the overhang is even on both sides. Predrill the holes before driving the screws.

The base is attached to the bench top. Now we can add the shelf. Position it at the height you want. I’d like enough clearance to put boots underneath, so I’m leaving room between the shelf and the bench top. Clamp the shelf in place and check its alignment.

I’m going to recess the screws through the legs into the shelf, then conceal the holes with wood dowel plugs cut to length. Mark each hole carefully so the screw enters the centre of the shelf board. The 90-degree drill attachment helps me work in this tight space.

With the screws in place, add glue to each recessed hole, insert a dowel plug and trim off the excess. I’ll sand the plugs while the glue is still wet so sawdust from the wood fills any small gaps. If you’re working on a fine piece of furniture, you may want to protect the surrounding surface with tape while trimming. This bench is rustic, so I’m comfortable with a few small tool marks.

The bench is almost done. I’ll turn it over and apply the finish. I’m using a whitewash stain followed by a urethane clear coat. The whitewash gives the wood a light, rustic look. Before applying it, check that the corners and grooves are smooth, give anything that needs it a final sanding, and clean off the dust.

Once the stain has cured, it’s time for the clear coat. Stir or agitate it, but don’t shake it. Brush on a thin, even coat. We aren’t wiping this layer off, so avoid overbrushing it. Then let it dry.

That’s the hallway entry bench. I’ve had a great time building it with you, and I’d love to see what you make. You can use reclaimed wood or another type of wood for your own bench. Send me some photos, and I’ll see you next time.