Getting Started With Your SawStop Table Saw

Here are the first things you should do to get your new table saw ready to go, along with answers to some common questions.

What should I do first?

Except for the Jobsite and the new Compact saws, your new saw will require assembly. Review the instruction manual and various components. You will need at least one helper. The instructions are very clear, the parts are easily identifiable, and everything goes together cleanly and accurately. Take your time and work carefully. You shouldn’t have any issues, but if you do, call or email us and we’ll be happy to help. When the saw is fully assembled, clean the shipping film from the cast iron surfaces. Paint thinner and cotton rags work well. The oily rust-preventative coating you remove should be replaced immediately with a silicone-free surface treatment such as Boeshield T-9 or Veritas Tool Wax. You should repeat this periodically to keep your saw rust-free. Turn off the main power switch or unplug the saw before changing blades or performing any maintenance.

What kind of blades can I use?

Any standard 10" saw blade can be used. This includes blades with a Teflon coating.

What should I bear in mind when changing blades?

You should always check the gap between the blade and the brake cartridge and make sure it is within spec using the gauge that came with the saw. This is because blades may vary a little in diameter from one maker to another or may become slightly smaller after sharpening. Otherwise, blade changing is the same as with any other table saw.

Are there any initial adjustments I should make?

A SawStop table saw is well tuned when it leaves the factory. It should not require any adjustments; however, some things may need attention over time, including:

• Miter slot alignment to the blade


• Rip fence alignment


• 90° and 45° blade tilt stops


• Belt tension

For the contractor’s saw, PCS, and ICS, you can use a combination square to check the alignment of the trunnions relative to the miter slots. Raise the blade to its full height, select a tooth, and make a mark on the saw plate adjacent to it. Rotate the blade such that the marked tooth is just above the table at the front of the saw.

With the square’s fence registered against the edge of the miter groove, set its rule to just contact the tooth.

Rotate the blade to the back of the saw and take a reading with the square. Whether there is a gap at the end of the rule or the square’s fence is pushed away from the miter groove indicates which direction the trunnions need to be adjusted, and by how much.

You can use a dial indicator and magnetic base mounted to the miter gauge instead of a combination square. The same general process also applies to setting the fence for parallel. Some woodworkers strive for parallel to the miter groove, while others give their fence an intentional slight toe-out (about 5 thou) to help reduce binding in the cut.

A good practice is to annually go through the manual and give your saw a thorough check-up.

Keep the blade no more than 1/8" above the work.