Veritas Miter Slot Extrusion

Cut a dado sized to the track's width and depth (a router table works for small jigs, a table saw with a dado stack for larger ones), then set the track in place and fasten it, preferably with screws rather than glue.

Screws are the better choice, since a track that lifts after the glue cures can be difficult to fix and screws also let you remove and reuse the track later; if you do glue it, cyanoacrylate or epoxy both work.

A hacksaw or a bandsaw fitted with a metal-cutting blade cuts the aluminum track cleanly; deburr the cut edge afterward with a stationary belt sander, a flap wheel or a file.

Yes, if your table or jig is made from particleboard, MDF or plywood, seal the dado and any exposed edges first; a penetrating finish such as shellac or varnish holds up better here than paint.

Yes, as long as the dado is cut slightly deeper than the Veritas miter slot extrusion's thickness, which lets you shim it with paper, plastic or brass stock until its top surface sits flush with or slightly below the surrounding surface.

This 3/4" track creates a standard miter slot for miter gauges and bars, while the narrower 1/4" and 5/16" T-slot tracks are made for jigs that need T-nuts or T-bolts to slide in a channel; choose the miter slot track if you're matching an existing miter gauge.