Setting the Blade

A sharp and properly shaped blade is the first step in getting your plane to cut beautifully. The second part is setting the cutting depth.

Chamfering with the apron plane

What initial adjustments should I make?

The lever cap screw should be snug enough but not overtightened. A quarter turn after full engagement is plenty. Never torque it down; this may damage the plane.

How do I set the cutting depth?

There are a couple of methods for setting the blade; try them both and see which works for you. Each begins with the cutting edge retracted just below the sole.

Method #1: Sight down the sole, either from the front or the rear. Slowly advance the blade until the cutting edge just begins to emerge. Ensure that it’s parallel to the sole by pivoting the blade adjuster. Take a test cut and assess the results. Advance or retract the blade and make lateral adjustments as needed. Continue the process until you achieve an even shaving of the desired thickness.

Image left: Plane blade skewed to plane sole. Image right: Plane blade set parallel to plane sole.

Method #2: Instead of sighting the blade, this approach uses a small scrap of wood (approximately 1/8" × 1" × 2" to 3") to test the cutting edge as it emerges. Run the scrap wood past the cutting edge at both corners of the blade. If the blade doesn’t take a shaving, advance it slightly and try again.

The initial goal is to ensure the cutting edge is parallel to the sole; make lateral adjustments until both shavings are the same thickness. You can then focus on setting the blade projection for the desired depth of cut. Alternatively, you can use a larger piece of wood held in a vise.

With a sharp, properly adjusted plane, you should be well on the way to producing smooth, crisp surfaces.

Using a piece of wood to set the blade.